The Glittering Legacy: A History of Diamond Jewelry

Diamonds have long captured human imagination–worn by kings, traded across continents, and treasured as symbols of power, wealth, and everlasting love. But how did we go from uncut rough diamonds in riverbeds to precious-cut gemstones lighting up diamond engagement rings and red carpets? Let’s take a sparkling walk through diamond history, from their origins to their modern-day magic.

Ancient India, Where It All Began

Diamonds were first discovered in India, as early as the 4th century BC in the deposits of rivers. They were valued for their hardness and brilliance. For centuries, India was the world's only known source of diamonds. Ancient people first called diamonds adamas because of their unmatched hardness and durability.

In these early days, these precious stones were revered not for their sparkle, but for their mystical and symbolic qualities. They were worn by royalty and warriors, believed to bring courage, protection, and strength. The rough diamonds were often kept in their natural form (not cut or polished), prized for their clarity and indestructibility.

After India’s diamond supply declined, the discovery of diamonds in Brazil made Brazil the world’s leading supplier for over a century.

From Divine Power to Decorative Beauty

As diamonds made their way to Europe along ancient trade routes like the Silk Road, they caught the attention of the Greeks and Romans. The Greeks believed diamonds were tears of the gods, while Roman soldiers wore them as protective talismans.

Until the Middle Ages, diamonds were rarely used in decorative jewelry. They were considered too valuable and too hard to alter. That changed with one crucial invention.

The Turning Point: Cutting Tools and the Birth of Sparkle

In the 15th century, a Flemish jeweler named Lodewyk van Bercken invented the scaife, a polishing wheel coated with diamond dust. This tool allowed for precise cutting and faceting, giving rise to the first recognizable diamonds cuts like the point cut (mimicking the diamond’s natural octahedral shape), the table cut (flat top, square shape–often seen in Renaissance jewelry), and the rose cut (domed top with triangular facets, popular in the 16th-18th centuries). Below a rose cut diamond and pear-shaped emerald.

In 1477, Archduke Maximilian of Austria proposed to Mary of Burgundy (who was one of the most sought-after heiresses in Europe) with the first diamond engagement ring ever documented. The betrothal ring consisted of flat-cut diamonds in the shape of an “M”. 

Tools of Brilliance: Advancements in Diamond Cutting

With the invention of cutting tools, diamonds began to be seen not just as symbols, but as artistic expressions of beauty. As centuries passed, cutting techniques became more refined. The rise of the old mine cut and old European cut in the 17th-18th centuries, were early attempts to enhance the brilliance using rounded shapes and deeper proportions. Shown are a variety of diamond cuts that evolved through the years..

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Steam powered machinery and precision faceting led to better symmetry and polish. Later the ideal cut was created by using a scientific formula for maximizing a diamond’s sparkle, thus laying the groundwork for the modern round brilliant cut. These tools turned diamond cutting into a true craft, balancing beauty with geometry and light performance. Shown is a brilliant cut diamond ring.

Diamond Rush and the Industrial Era

In the late 1800s, huge diamond deposits discovered in the Kimberley diamond fields of South Africa revolutionized the market. The De Beers company was founded in 1888 and played a major role in controlling diamond production, diamond supply, and shaping public perception of diamonds.

Jewelry became more accessible to the emerging middle class thanks to industrialization. The Victorian Era saw diamonds combined with colored gemstones like rubies and sapphires in intricate settings.

From Tradition to Trend: Diamonds in the 20th Century

The 20th century saw diamonds become more accessible and more widely marketed, especially through the De Beers marketing campaign of “ A Diamond is Forever”. Suddenly diamonds weren’t just for royals. Diamonds were the standard for engagement rings and a symbol of eternal love and luxury. A diamond engagement ring became a universal engagement tradition, especially in Western countries.

With improved global trade, new diamond mines in Africa, Russia, and Canada, plus the ever-evolving technology, diamond jewelry has become a staple of modern life.

Diamond Standards

The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) developed the famous 4Cs of diamond grading in the early 1950s. Before this time there was no universal standard for describing a diamond’s quality. The 4Cs made diamond quality understandable, measurable, and comparable, thus changing the diamond industry forever. Both jewelers and consumers benefited from a greater knowledge and understanding of diamonds.

The 4Cs of diamond grading consist of Cut (how well the diamond is shaped and faceted), Color (how little color the diamond shows, graded D-Z for colorless diamonds), Clarity (how free the diamonds is from internal or external flaws), and Carat Weight (how much the diamond weighs).

Famous World Diamonds in History

Famous diamonds play a powerful role in the history of diamonds. Not only were they extraordinary gems, but they were symbols of political power, mystery, romance, and innovation. These iconic stones often acted as milestones, shaping public fascination with diamonds and driving interest in diamond jewelry across different eras. Here are some of the most famous diamonds in history, known for their size, beauty, and fascinating stories:

Hope Diamond 

The Hope Diamond was originally from India and is world famous for its color and alleged curse. This diamond was passed through kings and collectors before ending up in the Smithsonian.

Image by Smithsonian

Cullinan Diamond

The Cullinan Diamond was the largest rough diamond ever found at 3,106 carats. This diamond was cut into nine major gemstones including the Great Star of Africa. The Great Star of Africa is now set in the British Sovereign’s Scepter.

Photo by Royal Collection Trust

Dresden Green Diamond

The Dresden Green Diamond is one of the largest diamonds that is famous for its green color.

Photo by GIA

Pink Star 

The Pink Star diamond is a flawless pink diamond at 59.60 carats. It became the most expensive diamond sold at auction in 2017.

Photo By Natural Diamonds

Where We Are Today: Innovation, Ethics, and Personal Style

In recent years, the diamond industry has entered a new chapter that is defined by transparency, sustainability, and innovation.

• Lab-grown diamonds are identical to mined diamonds in every way, but are formed in labs using high pressure and temperature increasing diamond accessibility. Lab-created diamonds are more accessible and are considered less valuable. Pictured are lab-grown diamond earrings and an engagement ring.

• Blockchain tracking offers provenance transparency to ensure conflict-free sourcing.

• High-tech cutting like lasers, CAD and 3D imaging allow for custom designs and near-perfect symmetry.

• Diverse styles like the vintage-inspired diamond cuts of cushion, emerald, and pear-shaped are back in vogue, alongside modern minimalism and alternative designs. Featured are a cushion cut diamond, an emerald cut, and a pear-shaped diamond.

Today a diamond can be a bold fashion statement, a family heirloom, or a symbol of love–no longer confined to tradition, but full of personal meaning.

Final Thoughts: A Gemstone with a Story

From ancient warriors and royal courts to Hollywood glamour and contemporary elegance, the diamond has never stopped evolving. Advances in technology, diversified jewelry design, a renewal of vintage and antique diamond jewelry–it’s a story not just of a gemstone, but of human ingenuity, desire, and artistry.

The jewelers at The Estate Watch & Jewelry Store would love to work with you in finding the diamond jewelry that you desire! We have a large selection of fine jewelry, necklaces, rings, and bracelets. We also provide custom services if you desire to have a one-of-a-kind piece. Come see us today!